Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz 2005
Kaesler
Colour: Arterial blood.
Nose: Once opened, and when it's young, exhibits soy sauce, vegemite, mandarin rind and flowers. After a few hours with
air, and more suggestive of its future, it leans slowly towards dark chocolate embedded with black ripe yet still sour cherries. After 5 hours or more, small berried fruit, black and red start streaming though, vanilla lift adds a nice topping and ethereal afterglow.
Palate: Intensely ferrous and austere upon opening but this trait will become complex over time. The savoury qualities, pronounced by this vineyard persist until about 4 hours into the bottle.
Wine Advocate
As good as the preceding wines may be, they pale in the shadow of the 2005 Shiraz "Old Bastard," sourced from a 114-year-old vineyard, and which spent 22 months in new and one-year-old French oak. It presents a superb perfume of cedar, violets, lavender, smoked meat, game, black raspberry, and blueberry. This leads to a voluptuous, velvety-textured, layered, super concentrated Shiraz in perfect balance with well-concealed tannins and a 60-second, pure finish. Give it 6-8 years and drink it through 2035.
Score: 98.
—Jay Miller,
October
2007.
Wine Enthusiast
From vines planted in 1893, this wine combines spicy complexity with size and ultraconcentrated fruit. It tips the scales at 16% alcohol, but wears it well, hiding it under hints of licorice and subtle wood spice and layers of blackberry and blueberry fruit. Yes, it's big, but it's not inelegant, finishing lush, long and spicy. Terrific stuff that should drink well from 2010-2020.
Score: 95.
—Joe Czerwinski,
November
01,
2007.
Wine Spectator
Big but graceful. Offers a plush mouthful of ripe cherry, blackberry, pomegranate and cardamom, mingling beautifully on the rich, expressive finish. The tannins are beautifully integrated and refined, but definitely worth cellaring to soften. Shiraz. Best from 2010 through 2020.
Score: 95.
—Harvey Steiman,
October
15,
2007.
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